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No Time to Die Shakes Up James Bond’s Iconic Wardrobe

HighLifeChannel October 14, 2021

If one character has a clear-cut fashion identity, it’s James Bond. Ever since Dr. No made its way to the big screen in 1962, England’s foremost spy has been associated with a sophisticated look that has transcended changes in location, generation, and actor. With the franchise’s latest installment, No Time To Die, breaking global box office records, it’s clear that Bond remains one of cinema’s best-loved  and -dressed heroes. As the final film with Daniel Craig as 007 ,  the fast-paced action movie, directed by Cary Joji Fukunaga, marks the end of an era that brought realism and grit to the series. With his perfectly tailored Tom Ford suits and sleek tactical gear, Craig’s Bond has menswear gravitas, but his swan song required a wardrobe that went beyond expectations. 

Enter costume designer Suttirat Larlarb: the woman behind the realistic yet impactful look of films like Slumdog Millionaire and Steve Jobs. A longtime fan, she didn’t want to mess with perfection. “It wouldn’t have been right starting from scratch,” shared Larlarb via Zoom from Los Angeles. “I was hyper-aware of the responsibility that comes with taking on this character. Bond has so much history, and we wanted to make sure that we were paying respect to the franchise, its characters, and the world within the costuming.” 

The character’s sojourn into island life is brief, but Larlarb wanted to maintain an effortless sensibility throughout. “What does the best dressed man in the world wear when he isn’t someone who hems and haws over clothing decisions,” she explains. “Everything needed to look instinctual, as though it was barely a decision. No one thinks about James Bond standing in front of the mirror asking, ‘Is this tie right with this shirt?’ He has to look like he was born in whatever he’s wearing in each scene.” 

Craig’s humanist take on Bond also factored in. “We go on an emotional journey with Daniel,” says Larlarb. “When you look at previous Bonds, there’s a little bit more bravado and hiding of who the man is. But with Daniel, you see the man, not just the agent or playboy.” As such, Bond gets a chance to dress down—sort of. His luxurious N.Peal sweaters, polo shirts, and full corduroy suit from Massimo Alba still speak to the jet-setting lifestyle he’s become synonymous with, but they’re a far cry from the dinner jackets and glen check suits Sean Connery sported back in the day. 

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His final outfit alludes to his military training rather than his ladies-man persona. “Daniel put it on and immediately loved it,” says Larlarb. “If I had to pick a favorite, that might be it as it’s what he leaves the film in, and it had meaning on multiple levels. I found a vintage British commando jumper from the mid-1940s, then we remade it in navy blue and modernized the silhouette. We had talked about his clothes having a more paramilitary feel towards the end, and it worked perfectly because [the look] is a bit Royal Navy or Special Ops.” 

Rami Malek’s anarchist villain Lyutsifer Safin makes his debut in No Time to Die, but Larlarb connected him to the franchise’s greats and one of Japan’s fashion legends. “Bond villains always have a fashion edge,” she says. “During my initial pass of research, I saw a picture of Issey Miyake in his studio in the 1970s casually leaning against a drafting table. He’s immaculately dressed in his studio gear—nothing formal, but it isn’t casual either. You look at that picture, and Miyake seems like the architect of the universe, someone who is designing their own world. There’s something about Rami’s character that feels similar. He has a vision, not just for himself, but how he wants the world to be. Once I showed that picture of [Miyake] to Rami and Cary, it became our starting point.” 

As Safin, Malek sports a traditional Japanese mask during a pivotal scene where he seeks out revenge against Mr. White, the leader of criminal organization Quantum and the man responsible for the death of Safin’s family. The mask is used within the classical Japanese dance-drama Noh, and was a nod to Safin’s heritage. “Noh masks are expressionless. How they’re perceived depends on the movements of the actors and the angle you view them from,” says Larlarb. “They can be seen as pensive or serene, depending on your perspective. That variety gave Rami the tools to encapsulate the arc of Safin, who is Japanese and Russian. I knew that he was going to be iconic just by virtue of being a Bond villain, but he was able to express such depth and complexity within his performance.” 

It wouldn’t be a 007 film without the presence of Bond girls, but Larlarb didn’t want the women onscreen to dress like eye candy. “We wanted them to feel like their own people,” she says. “Especially Madeleine (Lea Seydoux) , who we’ve met in the previous films and are getting to know better. We’d been introduced to her as a professional, but now she’s revealing her personality and heartbreak. We’re seeing her in this new and romantic context.” To underscore the romantic subplot, Larlarb dressed Seydoux in rich colors and feminine silhouettes. “We meet her in a red floral dress by Rouje Gabin, and it’s at the height of her romance [with Bond],” she says. “Life throws a lot at them, and as the film begins its journey, we move into a neutral palette because she’s headed to work and dressing to meet with clients. Overall we wanted her to feel very different from the other women within the film, who wear armor because they’re MI6 agents. Madeleine has a much softer edge that speaks to what we come to learn about her backstory.” 

As field agents, Lashauna Lynch’s Nomi and Ana de Armas’ Paloma had to spend as much time fighting as Bond does, and their wardrobes needed to adapt to the film’s choreographed action and combat sequences. Nomi’s look is peppered with high fashion touches like Tom Ford field jackets, Isabel Marant halter tops, and Loewe’s balloon trousers. At the same time, Paloma goes full glam, taking down bad guys in Chopard jewelry and silver sandals from Aquazzura. “Paloma’s mission takes her to a black tie gala, so she has a phenomenal black gown by Michael di Sordo and diamonds, which I think everyone will agree looks incredible on her, but she also has to be able to fight,” says Larlarb. “We could have done a jumpsuit with fantastic boots, but she’s the most capable recruit and can do anything James can do—only in heels and elegant dress. Whenever I do a film with a stunt department, the women are always asked to pull off these incredible stunts in stilettos while the men come and say that their [flat] boots are too tight.” 

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Glamorous but laced with danger, No Time to Die is a fitting send-off for a beloved character, one Larlarb hopes audiences will appreciate. She credits Fukunaga and producers Barbara Broccoli and Michael G. Wilson with giving her team the freedom to create something unique. “We were handed a heavy responsibility but given so much creative license and support,” says Larlarb. “As experiences go, this will be hard to top!” 

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