The brief for David Morris’ head designer for the joyous new Berry collection was to do something sweetie or berry-like, youthful, and brightly coloured. The resulting jewels covers all those aspects, and then some – the final collection is a wistful, playful, super-summery range of carefree pieces that may have been inspired by fruit and candy, but are more evocative of scorching summers in the Mediterranean.
Take the materials for starters: turquoise, pearl, and pink-coral. The latter two are gems from the sea itself, while turquoise, despite being mined all over the world, is synonymous with tanned skin on European beaches. Combine all three, and you’ve got the ultimate hot-weather, beach-friendly collection.
But there are no bohemian chunks of rough-hewn turquoise beads here, or Mermaid-esque ropes of pearls. This is more summer colour in a modern format, but with a free-spirited vibe nonetheless.
Comprising almost 30 styles, and with a relatively friendly (compared to the London jeweller’s usual price tags) starting price of £2,000 a piece, there are flexible gold bracelets top-and-tailed with various mixtures of materials; a turquoise bead at one end, a cluster of all three coloured beads at the other.
A cocktail ring is a veritable ice cream sundae of a piece, where a dozen or so beads are piled into a mound, some with their tiny diamond and pink-sapphire stems, others left perfectly smooth.
Open rings sport trios of beads at one end, a single stone at the other, while sweet single rings bearing just one ‘berry’ look subtle on their own or delectable when stacked together. It’s the same with single berries suspended as pendants from fine rose gold chains that look as good solo as they do en masse.
David Morris is hardly the first high-end jeweller to create a more affordable line for the younger client, but it’s nice to see an original take on the genre.
Too many big brands have adopted the exact same colour palette of green malachite, blue lapis lazuli and pink opal for their less pricey collections, but this sweet combination of turquoise, coral and pearl, with the added sprinkle of diamonds and pink sapphires, feels fresh and new – just in time for the new season.